Traditional Medicine

January 1, 2005  

 

 

It seems like one of the main topics of breakfast conversation among visiting faculty to the Dakar campus concerns digestive problems.  I have coined the term “Dakaria” to describe what generally hits newcomers during their second week here.  (Second week because visitors tend to be cautious about what they eat and drink during the first week, then act a bit more adventurous after that.)  Generally the stomach problems are relatively benign, treatable with lots of bottled water and perhaps some Imodium.  In some cases, it requires heavy doses of Cipro, the antibiotic famous as a treatment for anthrax.  Even those who have been in Senegal for a very long time have bouts of intestinal problems, not to mention malaria and other more serious illnesses.  One of CIEE’s study abroad students even contracted Dengue Fever while on a trip to Southeastern Senegal in the Kedougou region. 

 

Doctors, clinics, and hospitals here leave much to be desired.  As my friend, Nancy Manahan, a long time foreign service doctor who was stationed in Dakar for four years, once said, if you can get treatment in the United States, that would be a much better choice.  Outside of the ex-patriot community, the local population has to navigate a maze of levels of medical competence and bureaucracy in order to be treated.  And one with no money does not receive treatment at all.  As I mentioned in previous stories, infant mortality is still very high.  I have attended several funerals, always inquire about the cause of death, and mostly get puzzled looks and, “she just died”, as the answer.  This summer a cholera epidemic in Dakar resulted in over 800 reported cases (and probably many more unreported) and scores of fatalities. 

 

We have a doctor who holds clinic hours for our students.  Nancy Senghor is Senegalese and trained here.  She is very pleasant, but seems to be rather cavalier with her general diagnosis of malaria for almost everything, without any lab tests.  One American student clearly had a bad cold, but the diagnosis was malaria, even though he had only been in Senegal for one day!

 

There is a Canadian-trained Lebanese doctor, Djaneidi,  who treats most of the Americans in Dakar.  His English is good, relies on lab tests, seems to keep current with medical procedures, and knows diseases typical of tropical regions.  If I were in need of a physician and couldn’t get home, he is the guy I would call.

 

For my part, in the past year I have also experienced periodic stomach problems.  I am probably not as careful about what I eat and drink as I should be, I’ll admit.  Occasionally I will eat a salad of raw vegetables (so excited about any vegetables at all!), drink something with ice cubes (potentially from non-bottled water), or share from the communal bowl with a welcoming family (rude to refuse!).  I eat yogurt daily to get all the acidophilus and other bacteria necessary for good digestion and drink lots of ginger juice to help settle my stomach. 

 

Well, beginning last summer, I started experiencing severe symptoms – intermittent pain in my stomach, a severe bloated feeling, and intermittent diarrhea.  It was quite painful and I felt weak and tired most of the time.  In my usual fashion, I chose to ignore and override, a tactic that has served me well in the past.  This time it really didn’t work as well.  So when I came home for a visit in October, I made an appointment with my doctor at Harvard Vanguard.  After describing my symptoms, he was convinced that I had picked up Guardia while on a backpacking trip in California last summer and sent me for a stool sample.  I thought it funny that after all the time in West Africa, I might have contracted something closer to civilization. 

 

However test results revealed an amoeba - Endolimax nana – which generally doesn’t cause symptoms.  I was prescribed a heavy duty antibiotic, which I reluctantly took.  It really didn’t help, and probably made me feel worse.  My theory is that it also killed off good bacteria, necessary for digestion and dealing with local bugs.  Concurrently I went to a colon therapy clinician and had two high colonic treatments, lots of fun.  The practitioner, who was very knowledgeable and understanding, also gave me some acidophilus pills, green powder to mix with water, and a book to read.  It was her contention that I suffered from some sort of worms, which tend to cause upper intestinal symptoms such as mine.  In fact I think I actually saw them more than once!  I got Nancy Manahan to write me a prescription for de-worming medicine, just like that given to dogs.  Well, that did something.  I was sufficiently cleaned out of something that was living in there.

 

But I still didn’t feel 100%.  It is common for these things to be difficult to fully diagnose, and there is a tendency for them to return and remain for long periods.  I wasn’t enthusiastic about that thought, and Lorraine was pushing me very strongly to get additional treatment.  This is something I will do when I get back home for my next visit.

 

Well, I had been hearing more and more about “traditional medicine”.  Many locals throughout Africa bypass modern medicine and visit practitioners of traditional medicine.  From what had been described to me, people go back to their villages to visit guys who could also be described as shamans or witch doctors.  They treat all sorts of illnesses, from AIDS to depression to malaria to skin diseases, with a combination of local plants, incantations, chants, and gri-gri (totems that are worn around the neck).  I had also heard that there was a traditional medicine center in the town of Fatick where they treat with a combination of modern and traditional medicines. 

 

 

I asked my driver, Manga, if he had heard of the place.  He had and he telephoned to find out a bit about it.  Sounded mysterious, but I was indeed curious and open to seeing what it involved.   I resolved to go their last week.  After mentioning my plan to some friends, I suddenly had three other people asking to come along – Serigne Ndiaye, director of CIEE, who had back pain, Eric Berg, a CIEE student studying traditional medicine, and an elderly Senegalese friend of Eric’s, who looked quite ill.  We made the 2 ˝ hour drive to Fatick last Tuesday.

 

 

 

The center is down a dirt road beyond the sleepy town of Fatick in the Sine Saloum swamp region of Senegal.  The sign in front of the center describes an experimental center for the study of traditional medicine, sponsored by the Ministry of Scientific Research.  It consisted of several small huts in a very peaceful setting.  Several local people were sitting on benches outside the main hut.  Soon I was ushered into the hut for my intake interview.  A man took down my name, age, marital status, symptoms, and other data.  He charged me 200 CFA for the intake (about 40 cents).  There was a young woman there also, named Fatou Ndiaye, who was a student at the national social worker school in Dakar.  She was conducting some sort of study and she asked me other questions concerning my opinion of traditional medicine, my symptoms, and other vague questions. 

 

One by one, my friends were also interviewed.  Then I was taken by Fatou to another hut for my meeting with a traditional medicine practitioner.  I brought Serigne Ndiaye along with me to translate from Wolof.  We pulled back a curtain and entered a very small room with two beds and a chair.  On the bed sat an elderly man in traditional attire.  All around the room were various fetishes and ceremonial objects.  I sat of the chair and through Serigne described my symptoms and what the doctors had prescribed.  He reached under the bed for a couple of big sacks of stuff and mixed me up four small bags of assorted wood chips (from seven different trees).  I was told to take one bag of chips and put it in a liter of water and let it sit for an hour.  I was to then drink it exclusively, replenishing the water as I drank the brew.  Each bag of chips would last eight days.  After finishing all four bags (32 days), I should come back for a follow-up consultation.  He also gave me a small bag of some powder, also looking like it came from wood.  I was to sprinkle a bit on each meal, like salt, and eat it that way.  If I were to get diarrhea. I was to put a teaspoon (he showed me how to measure) in a glass of water and drink it.  It would stop the diarrhea within 15 minutes, he assured me.  He asked for 3,000 CFA ($6) and I thanked him and left.  My friends were also ushered to other huts for similar consultations. 

 

 

I was told by Fatou that the center was started in 2001 and involves brief residencies by over 450 traditional medicine practitioners from all over Senegal.  In addition the visiting healers treating people during their stays at the center, scientific research is being conducted on their various procedures and treatments.  The center also hosts a big gathering of hundreds of them right before the rainy season.  Villagers from all over Senegal come for advice and predictions about the weather, harvests, and other things. 

 

The whole thing took very little time and we departed from the center around noon.  We stopped for lunch in MBour on the way home, returned to Dakar, and I began the treatment.  It has only been a few days, and I am following the protocol as prescribed.  I do think I am feeling better. 

 

I have done a bit of inquiring concerning traditional medicine practices here.  Many people rely exclusively on this treatment, rather than medical doctors.  Western pharmaceutical companies have been examining traditional remedies, some of which may be reliable treatments for illnesses, patentable and marketable.  Probably this would once again result in exploitation of African ideas with little profit returning to the originators.  I heard that in East Africa, there is a traditional treatment for Cycle Cell Anemia that is being tested by an American pharmaceutical company with much success.

 

At a social event, I mentioned my visit to Dr. Djaneidi.  He was enthusiastic, telling me that he had been studying traditional treatments for several years.  He asked me to inquire on my next visit which trees were in my mix.  He is compiling a directory of traditional medicines.

 

As an aside, one of our employees, Yves Banco, a cleaner, has been very ill for several months.  He came to see me two weeks ago asking for a loan to pay for traditional medical treatment.  He said he had been to the hospital, but they could not diagnose him or improve his condition.  He hadn’t had the strength to work for several weeks.  He looked close to death to me – gaunt with a deathly cough (my guess, either tuberculosis or AIDS).  He was insistent on relying only on traditional medicine.  Out of pity, I gave him some money.    We haven’t seen or heard from him since and I can only assume the worst.

 

 

 

 

To return to the main Stories from Senegal page, click here.